Wednesday, 10 December 2014

Makeup - The Classic Smokey Eye

The Smokey Eye

A timeless classic... the smokey eye is to make-up what the little black dress is to fashion. The basic application can be altered to fit almost any situation as we saw with the soft Burberry AW/14 catwalk look to the glittery vamp look that the Tom Ford models wore in September! The more I practice my smokey eye application the more I have been wearing it myself, I love the versatility and this look is something that is a staple request for Makeup Artists and one that needs to be able to be done quickly! 

TOM FORD SS/15 BEAUTY LOOK

A Bit Of Background

When doing a bit of research on the creator of the first smokey eye I came across an article by Vogue interviewing Makeup Artist Linda Cantello, in it she states 'When I worked with Tom Ford I created the smoky eye for Gucci, and that's definitely what I'm best known for. The thing is, not everyone is naturally beautiful, but you can always make a woman look sexy, I really believe that. I am definitely proud of it as it's obviously still going strong after all these years, so I definitely feel a sense of achievement about that. I always feel slightly annoyed if I read an interview where someone says "Oh yes I was the one who invented the smoky eye", because it was me! I always get asked about it - it will probably be on my gravestone: Linda Cantello - creator of the smoky eye.'

Linda Cantello demonstrating her smokey eye




You can read the whole interview here:




Also, check out my recent post on her!

Classic Blackest Catwalk Look Step by Step:

!Remember your health & Safety checks!

*Prep skin by cleansing, toning and moisturising etc.
  • Select a synthetic fibre concealer brush, lift brow and place a gel liner (Mac's Blacktrack) all over the lid - working quickly to avoid the product drying out.
  • Use a clean eyeshadow brush and buff out the edges immediatly.
  • Using the same concealer brush, add colour to just beneath the waterline.
  • Using the eyeshadow brush, pick up some black eyeshadow (Ben Nye) press in powder all over the lid.
  • Using a clean eyeshadow brush pick up a natural eyeshadow colour (Ben Nye Brulee) to match the skin tone  and place all over any clean skin up to the brow.
  • Next pick up some mid and dark brown shadows and buff in where the light and dark colours meet to create some depth.
  • Go back in with some black shadow and go over the lower part of the blend line to knock out any fall out of brown.
  • Clear up underneath the eye using moisturiser on a small cotton bud.
  • Next take a clean concealer brush and conceal (colour correct if needed) and powder under the eye using a small fluffy brush and a fine translucent powder.
  • Using a flat brush, first work some black shadow into the back of your hand to prevent any fall-out and work into the lash line.
  • (If there is any drop-out pick up some powder and sweep it away - never blow on the model!)
  • Fill in the brows using eyeshadow, pencils or derma color.
  • Using a light beige highlighter (Mac Vanilla Pigment) under the brow and in the corner of the eyes.
  • Finally buff in the brown again if needed, no more product should be picked up.
  • Adding mascara finishes the black catwalk look!
*There are more step by steps showing how to complete the final face in Foundations, Contouring & Highlighting and Lips!



First Attempt:



This was a quick attempt at creating a black smokey eye and although I think the shape is good and the look is effective, it is obviously unfinished against the rest of the face. The gel liner I used dried out very quickly and I found it hard to buff in. Must work faster! It is worth mentioning though that working on one eye at a time with this type of product is a good idea - going back to working across both equally one the gel liner has been buffed out! Also, more mascara is needed.

Second Attempt:



I was pleased with this result, it is always worth trying things out and playing with products again if it has been a long time since you have used them or if it is the first time you have used them. I haven't tried this look for over six months and its easy to forget a products quirks if you are not using it every day. This attempt was much more successful with the buffing out of the gel liner! I reckon a little more buffing of the dark brown could have been done. 



Referencing:

Linda Cantello Giorgio Armani Make-Up Artist (Vogue.com UK). 2014. Linda Cantello Giorgio Armani Make-Up Artist (Vogue.com UK). [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2011/10/13/linda-cantello-giorgio-armani-make-up-artist. [Accessed 07 November 2014].

A Beauty Masterclass | Armani Privé - Emirates Woman. 2014. A Beauty Masterclass | Armani Privé - Emirates Woman. [ONLINE] Available at:http://emirateswoman.com/2014/05/27/masterclass-armani-prive/#.VG-RvfmsXuQ. [Accessed 07 November 2014]

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