Wednesday, 20 May 2015

End of Year 1 - HND in Specialist Makeup - Evaluation

Having a bit of background in makeup was definitely a bonus when starting this year however knowing what I know now – I know how much more is possible! Starting the HND course has not only opened up whole new world in makeup and hair but in fashion, design and history!

I can’t imagine progressing into makeup design without this course. My tutor for level 3 queried how much more there could be to learn –  but it’s a huge amount!

Makeup:


I could produce a satisfactory makeup look when I started however some days went better than others meaning my skills were not consistently good enough. A better understanding of how to research different looks has meant that I have a good enough understanding of what needs to be achieved in order to know what needs to be perfected in order to achieve it – and that is so important!

I feel as though I have enough key skills in makeup now that with practice I can now get to the level I personally want to get to but that I need to put the time in to perfect certain areas.

One thing that still needs work is my eye lining but as with all things, knowing what products the look can be achieved with is half the battle and my product knowledge is much broader now.

I am much more knowledgeable in skin prep and base techniques including contouring and also a lot happier with lip shapes and blending and blocking brows. I now know the difference between what is needed for fashion, period and theatrical looks and I am really pleased with the new skills I have learned.

I've really enjoyed working as part of a team for our theatre studies assessment. It's nice to be able to share the workload and make use of everyone's best skills in order to produce the final look.

I would give myself a merit in makeup at this stage and hope that as my confidence grows I can be worthy of a distinction by the end of year two!

Hair: 

I feel as though hair is an area I shy away from a bit as I am not confident in my skills. I know so much more than I ever thought I would and I love some of the looks that can be achieved however it’s always the last thing on my list to get sorted. I do feel with proper planning I could design good hair looks to compliment my makeup and with practice, produce these looks. Better timed research is what is needed here. I know I can do it if I try as I was really happy with my results for the term 1 period hairstyling final which was quite complicated.

I can almost pull my newly acquired skills together but  I need to be inspired by the final look and things fell apart a bit this year as I was playing catch-up a lot.



I would give myself a pass with a small dash of merit for hair for this first year but knowing how important it is to finish a look, I will try to get design planning done earlier in order to practice a few times before a final next year. Whipping an unpractised look up is never going to get great results!

Contextual:

I can’t say enough how important knowing the context behind a look is! I love art and history and so to combine the two with period fashion and design has been so much more of an education than I could have expected from a makeup course. Knowing why people looked the way they did and who was who in a certain time period is invaluable to producing a genuine makeup and hair look.

I am confident in my historical knowledge to produce the correct look for a certain time in history and which sources to use in order to research further if needed.

This was one of my favourite classes and I would give myself a high merit in it. I will continually be topping up my knowledge from regular visits to museums and with further research on certain designers, models and high profile people throughout history – contextual studies was an education in itself.

Overall:

To get a distinction next year I feel as though I need to organise my time better and keep on top of my work as it is shown in the planned weekly layouts rather than knowing what I need to do but leaving things until the last minute.


The coursework is a lot to get through whilst maintaining a professional business however I know the quality of my practical assessments could improve once this issue is overcome. The experience I have gained this year has taught me many new skills which I want to put into practice with the best of my ability for my assessments next year. Planning and preparation is my main area for improvement.

Final Assessment - Mask

Here are some of the final shots I took myself on the day of our final mask assessment.

Face Chart:

 Here is my face chart with products and timings.


Hair & Makeup:






Evaluation:

I was pleased with the makeup on the whole, I think it worked well with the mask. I am never happy with my hair but since the model's hair was so short it worked ok with the fluff on the headpiece. I wish I had used a stronger product on the spikes and had time to create a more finished hair look. I have had a look at the final shots and they need a little work with Photoshop since the mask (which I used Prosaide to keep in place) looks as though it has slipped a little - anything's possible though and I will definitely take the time to create a better final photo! Overall, I am pleased with the mask construction and final finish, I think adding more feathers to the headpiece would benefit the overall look.

Makeup Looks Research - Mask Making



McQueen Catwalk Show

I needed a makeup look to compliment my mask design. Having chosen the theme of Pagan Mythology and inspired by my research on Alexander McQueen's 'Gazelle eye' catwalk look, I wanted to explore a bold graphic eye for my pagan goddess character so I started by researching into more high fashion catwalk looks.


Hache, Dior, Chanel Spring 2014

I love this look desined for Chanel SS14, it's almost a mask in itself and since my design is a half mask, I am thinking something bold is needed to balance the final photo.

Chanel


When I think about a goddess inspired makeup look, Katy Perry's Dark Horse Video comes to mind immediately!



I am using black, white and blue colour scheme for the mask and headpiece. I went with this initial idea as it seemed to work well with my final design idea. I have kept the makeup look less polished to give more of a feel of the natural paints that were  used by the ancient Britain's.







I am keeping a natural base with stronger contouring than I have shown here. I tried doing a blue lip but felt it was too theatrical for a fashion look.

The Mask:

I have charted my design of the mask in my sketch book so I will add some visuals of my mood boards and the design process in later posts but here are some pics of the finished mask and headdress.













Alexander McQueen




ALEXANDER McQUEEN

The Designer:

Fashion designer. Lee Alexander McQueen was born on March 17, 1969 into a working-class family living in public housing in London's Lewisham district. 
At age 16, McQueen dropped out of school. He found work on Savile Row, a street in London's Mayfair district famous for offering made-to-order men's suits.
Deciding to further his clothes-making career, he moved on from Savile Row. McQueen began working with theatrical costume designers Angels and Bermans. The dramatic style of the clothing he made there would become a signature of his later independent design work. 

Read more at http://www.alexandermcqueen.com/experience/en/alexandermcqueen/biography/#id_article=137


Savage Beauty:



Thoughts:

It seems like more than a stroke of good fortune that the Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty exhibition was being displayed at the Victoria and Albert museum in London earlier this year, happening in conjunction with our final project on mask making. To have the chance to see McQueen’s collection in person has changed the way I think about design. He combines his talent with fashion with something bigger and braver than most could imagine. 

I can't recommend going to see his creations in person enough! The genius of his idea's not only in fashion but in the production of his shows need to be seen to be believed!

Ticket Information can be found at: 









The Book:

I admit to being slightly McQueen obsessed... I will be reading this from cover to cover over the summer!

Further Research:

As I research into him as a designer he is continually inspiring. Drawing from his appreciation of the natural world, he manages to take form combined with time-honoured design and change it just enough to retain a classical sense of beauty whilst creating something exotic and thought provoking – his creations are a true work of art. I will take inspiration from him with a feather headpiece for my final design that compliments my chosen theme - Pagan Mythology. 



A/W06 Runway Show Part 1
(part 2 follows)


Antler & Lace Headpiece A/W06


Makeup:

The makeup is also highly creative falling in line with the highest quality of work that makes up a McQueen show. Below is the Gazelle makeup from the 'It's a Jungle Out There!' show in Borough Market in February 1997.



In a television interview he said: “The whole show feeling was about the Thompson’s gazelle. It’s a poor little critter – the markings are lovely. It’s got these dark eyes, the white and black with the tan markings on the side, the horns – but it is the food chain of Africa. As soon as it’s born it’s dead, I mean you’re lucky if it lasts a few months, and that’s how I see human life, in the same way. You know, we can all be discarded quite easily … you’re there, you’re gone, it’s a jungle out there!”

Even Further Research:

Here is a half hour documentary created by the BBC, it gives a great insight into the person behind the designs - a must-see!



BBC Documentary 'The Works' 1997

Another documentary well worth a watch is 'McQueen and I' - Enjoy :)


References:



Alexander McQueen Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear - Collection - Gallery - Style.com. 2015. Alexander McQueen Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear - Collection - Gallery - Style.com. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.style.com/slideshows/fashion-shows/fall-2006-ready-to-wear/alexander-mcqueen/collection/6. [Accessed 11 April 2015].

Alexander McQueen fall winter 2006 part 1 - YouTube. 2015. Alexander McQueen fall winter 2006 part 1 - YouTube. [ONLINE] Available at:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHb9RuQSSI8. [Accessed 11 April 2015].

BBC Documentary 'The Works' - Alexander McQueen 'Cutting Up Rough' 1997 (Full) - YouTube. 2015. BBC Documentary 'The Works' - Alexander McQueen 'Cutting Up Rough' 1997 (Full) - YouTube. [ONLINE] Available at:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=542vMeyma4g. [Accessed 11 April 2015].

McQueen And I - YouTube. 2015. McQueen And I - YouTube. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fNK2mKT8n9o. [Accessed 11 April 2015].

. 2015. . [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.biography.com/people/alexander-mcqueen-541384. [Accessed 11 April 2015].


Exhibition - Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty - Victoria and Albert Museum. 2015. Exhibition - Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty - Victoria and Albert Museum. [ONLINE] Available at:http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/exhibitions/exhibition-alexander-mcqueen-savage-beauty/. [Accessed 11 April 2015].

Monday, 9 March 2015

Hair - Heated Tongs

Makeup & Hair - Independent Fashion Shoot Final

Here are the final shots of my recreation of an image suitable for a high fashion magazine cover. See further development and prep in  my previous post!

Hair & Makeup:







Final Shots:

Not planned but we added a hat! It seemed to work with the makeup!




Photoshop:



Final Cover:


Evaluation:

I found this assessment more challenging than our previous one as there was an extra person to factor in! Rather than just having to organise a model as we have done in past assessments and taking our own photos, this time a Photographer was needed. Trying to get everyone in the same space at the same time proved a little more difficult and I had to factor time in for postponements and cancellations. 

On the day I found I went over my timings which made me feel under pressure as our Photographer was there early! He seemed happy to take tests shots and chat but still, I felt a bit rushed as I didn't want to keep him hanging around longer than ness.

I started with the makeup look. I was happy with the result overall before going on to the hair. The hair turned out ok but the plaits weren't as low as I had previously imagined. I went with it anyway. 

After a few hours everyone decided they were hungry - we took a pizza break before the final shots. *possibly a mistake...

This meant the makeup needed touching up, I went back in over the lips but I think in hindsight I should have totally removed the lip colour and reapplied it as the end results look a little patchy in places. Aqua colour is not smooth like lipstick and can crack up after a while. I was really happy with the mascara look which stayed on perfectly throughout pizza!

We took loads of shots but we were unhappy with the lighting. Unfortunately we weren't able to change it due to our location so we had to work with what we had. 

We couldn't seem to get the shot we wanted, something was always a little amiss even though our model was doing a fantastic job! The hair was bugging me so we decided to add the hat in - which thankfully really complimented the look.

We got our final shots and the skin looked beautiful and fresh as planned, the plaits are still just about showing and I was pleased the neon makeup look.

After playing with a bit of Photoshop I decided on the colour image with the pink background for my final cover shot. This is the one I chose to use to recreate a front cover. Up until this point I hadn't decided on which magazine I would use it for but I finally chose Elle. Although this look would have suited a few of the other choices, when I looked into Elle's recent front covers, they have been using slightly more edgy photos of late. 

I am really happy with the overall image, I'd like to recreate more in future.






Makeup & Hair - Independent Fashion Shoot - Prep

After researching five different fashion magazines, we chose one to recreate in our formative assessment. 

Please see past posts for in-depth research into each of these magazines but just to give the general concept, you can refer to these mini mood boards:

Magazine Covers

SS/15 Hair Trends

SS/15 Makeup Trends



I chose to create a look that focused on fresh dewy skin with a bright lip. As warm lip colours were so prolific this season on the catwalk, I chose red but to make extra current chose a neon red. Inspired by the recent Frydor & Golan catwalk show, I decided to carry this colour up to the eye with a neon red mascara look for the makeup with two waterfall plaits at the front of one side of the face for hair. 

Chosen Trends


Frydor Golan SS15 - Inspiration


Hair & Makeup Test Run:







To prepare for the assessment we needed to create an A3 Mood Board that includes visuals, a face & hair chart, product lists and timings:


Fashion Shoot Makeup & Hair Timings – SS/15

Make Up:

00:00 – 00:05 Health & Safety - Wash hands; Adjust chair height to eye level; Cover model with gown

00:05 – 00:10 Ski Prep – Cleanse; Tone; Moisturise; Prime using Clarins Beauty Flash Balm; Moisturise lips

00:10 – 00:20 Base – Colour match skin tone & apply base using Foundation Brush with Mac Face & Body, blend with Mac 130 Short Duo Fibre Brush

00:20 – 00:25 Conceal & Colour Correct using Le Maquillage Morag Palette and Concealer Palette

00:25 – 00:28 Cheeks – add warm bronze tones to cheeks using Stila Convertible Colour cream lips and cheeks

00:28 – 00:30 Set Base with light dusting of Mac Prep & Prime translucent powder across T-zone using large powder brush and using small fluffy brush under eyes

00:30 – 00:35 Contour – using Ben Nye shadow palette contour using light touch of Cobblestone with angled brush to give shadows to cheekbones, temples and jaw line strong enough to show under bright lighting

00:35 – 00:40 Brows – brush up with eyebrow brush and use eyebrow pencil to draw into place, creating big natural brow shape. Use natural eye-shadow colour to finish, highlight underneath using concealer

00:40 – 00:45 Eyes – Apply natural eye-shadow with slight warm tone to eyelids up to under brow bone using shadow brush, blend with fluffy brush

00:45 – 00:50 Lashes – using disposable mascara wand, apply several coats of ready mixed Kryolan Aqua Colour in Neon Red as mascara – allow to dry between

00:45 – 00:55 Lips – activate Kryolan aqua cake makeup in Neon Red with water and apply to lips

00:55 – 00:60 Check entire look and apply any finishing touches

Hair:

01:00 – 01:05 Health & Safety - Wash hands; Lower chair height to correct working level; Cover model with gown

01:05 – 01:10 Spray hair with Water Spray and brush downwards with Paddle Brush, section into side parting using Tail Comb

01:10 – 01:25 Blow dry hair downwards into sleek straight finish

01:25 – 01:40 Using heated hair straighteners go over lengths

01:40 – 01:45 Add in thickening hairspray to the front and a texturising spray from the middle to the ends

01:45 – 01:55 Create two waterfall plaits from right to left close to head



01:55 – 02:00 Check look and finish off any flyaways plus recheck makeup for photos



Fashion Shoot Makeup & Hair Products – SS/15

Make Up:

Gown
Cleanser
Toner
Moisturiser
Clarins Beauty Flash Balm
Lip Balm

Mac Face & Body
Le Maquillage Morag Palette
Concealer Palette
Stila Convertible Colour Cream Lips and Cheeks
Mac Prep & Prime Translucent Powder
Ben Nye Shadow Palette
Eyebrow Pencil
Kryolan Aqua Colour – Neon Red

Hair:

Water Spray
Paddle Brush
Tail Comb
Ceramic Vented Radial Brush
Hair Dryer
Hair Straighteners
Thickening Hairspray
Texturising Salt Spray


This was the final mood board that I will be using during my assessment:




Hair - Bows

Makeup - Freehand Lace

Hair - Ponytails & Messy Buns


Hair - Switches & Wefts

Makeup - Bleached Brows


Hair - Braiding, Pleats & Plaits

Makeup - Colour Beauty - Club to Catwalk

Vibrant use of colour is being used more and more and it's quite common to see this look used in editorial.





In class we recreated two colour beauty looks, giving ourselves an hour for each. 

This is the first look we were given:




This is the second look we were given:



To create these looks:


1st Look - Colour Beauty:

*This is for photoshoots only – not long wearing

  • Pat in Clown White greasepaint
  • Using ring finger pat in up until crease
  • Work chosen shadow colour into hand
  • Apply over the top of the greasepaint of to make the colour really pop
  • Using a fluffy brush, work over to ensure non-patchiness and soften edges
  • Using a clean fluffy brush, select a lighter shadow and
  • Apply under brow
  • Using a mid shade, buff over crease
  • Get rid of any drop out under and around the eye
  • Using a small brush, apply white greasepaint on waterline
  • Do the same slightly underneath extending out and under
  • Using a small brush, starting in the centre, press in chosen contrasting colour
  • Mix up a concealer to match skin from the Maquillage palettes
  • Cover any redness and blemishes
  • Apply foundation base
  • Set very lightly with translucent powder under the eyes then on face
  • Using a fan brush warm the skin with bronzer over the forehead and cheekbones
  • Tap on a darker shade for contours
  • Fill in brow using pencils and powder in desired colour
  • Go over with brow gel
  • Using a mini fan brush, apply mascara
  • Apply a bright lip colour
  • Use Vaseline as a highlighter for a fresh dewy skin

*To make more artistic mix up the under colour with Duraline
and add in under the brow

My Attempt:





2nd Look - Club to Catwalk:


  • Use a full coverage base such as Mac Full Coverage
  • Brush onto prepped skin with a foundation brush
  • Buff in with Mac’s 130 duo fibre brush
  • Mix a darker shade of mac full coverage to add in contours
  • Blend in
  • Use Kryolan Clown White greasepaint to add in highlights
  • Chose a shade of Derma Colour to match brows
  • Buff in white greasepaint onto eyelids
  • Use a clean eyeshadow brush to blend away the edges
  • Choose two contrasting bright shadows and apply to either half of the lid
  • Blend together on lid, using one side of the brush for each colour
  • Load a blending brush with beige shadow and blend out the edges
  • Use a third colour i.e Ben Nye Taupe to blend out further
  • Use a darker tone in corner and wing
  • Apply Clown White to waterline and just below
  • Work in a coloured shadow on top and below
  • Use Clown White to highlight under brow
  • Apply mascara using a mini-fan brush
  • Using Clown White as a base, mark out blush placement
  • Soften edge using a clean brush
  • Press on bright blusher colour on top half and blend down
  • Choose next shade, fill in and blend out
  • Using a black aqua colour, draw in cat-eye liner and lower line

My Attempt:







I was fairly happy in my application for the first look although in the photos the colours are not as strong as I would have liked. I might try this look again with cream colours for the eye, the Make Up Forever Flash palette would make a good alternative. I will definitely need to play with colours and blending contrasting colours more. Not too bad for a first attempt but far from happy!

Again with the second look I felt as though the colours on the lid didn't blend as easily as I had thought. The cheek colour could be stronger with more colour built in. I was happy with the line but couldn't resist adding further decoration since we were working with aqua colour!